Peak Climbing 23 Days 6189m.
Island peak is one
of the most popular trekking peak in Nepal. Perhaps
the name of peak is so because from Dingboche
the peak is seen as an island in a sea of ice.
The summit is interesting and attractive with
a highly glaciated west face rising from the Lhotse
Glacier. The ridge rising to the south from this
point leads to the summit of Island Peak. The
extension of this ridge descending southwest is
the part of the normal route of ascent and leads
to the south Summit.Imja Tse, another name of
the same Island Peak does not only provide an
enjoyable climb but also provides some of the
most spectacular scenery of Himalayas in the Khumbu
region. View from the summit are Nuptse (7,879m),
Lhotse (8,501m), Lhotse Middle Peak (8,410m) and
Lhotse Shar (8,383m) make a semi circle in the
north. The views of Makalu (8475m) in the east,
Baruntse and Amadablam in the south add much more
charming bonus in climbing Island Peak (Imjatse).
The Normal Route:
The base camp of Island Peak lies in Chukung Valley,
between Island Peak and the lateral moraine of
the Imja Glacier. Proper care should be taken
to avoid the possible avalanche in the event of
From the base camp,
a well-acclimatized party in good conditions can
make the summit and return to the base camp in
a day. However, most of the climbers prefer alpine
style camping at high camp, which adds the joy
of climbing and helps a safe ascent. From the
base camp the route skirts southeast around and
base of Imja Tse and climbs steep grassy slopes
and small rocky steps. We scramble up on open
gully which leads between two ridges to the site
of high camp on at 5, 280m.
From the high camp,
the lefts hand ridge scramble across the broad
open gully. After crossing a gully a steep snow
and ice ramp leads upward for nearly 100 meters
to the summit ridge. Climbing near the summit
is a little difficult due to steep climbing.
Total Days :
Itinerary of Island Peak Climbing
|DAY 01 : Arrival in Kathmandu
& Transfer to Hotel
Meet our office representative at Airport
& Transfer to Hotel, Evening dinner
& briefing about trip.
|DAY 02 : In Kathmandu
Am you will be visit world heritage
sties are Pashupatinath Temple, Boudhanath
Stupa & Monkey Temple, after Lunch
check th essential gears for climbing.
|DAY 03 : Kathmandu-Phakding
alt 2680m, 4 hrs trek.
Transfer to Airport fly to Lukla, where
porters will be waiting, hand them load
and couple of hrs Comfortable trek to
|DAY 04 : Trek Namce Bazar
alt 3470m, 5-6hrs.
After Brakfast couple of hrs walk along
the Dudhkoshi river, then trail steeply
ascend to Namche Bazar across alpine
|DAY 05 : Around Namche Bazarr.
Am explore around Namche Bazar, after
Lunch nearly two hrs walk to Sansasa
alt 3550m, View from Sansasa of Amadablam,
Lhotse, Thamserku is dramatic.
|DAY 06 : Trek to Dolle alt
After Breakfast, trek along easy pasture
slowly ascend to the pass alt 3800m,
steeply drop to the River known as Phortse,
then we all the way another 3 to 4hrs
climb to Dolle.
|DAY 07 : Trek to Macharmo
alt 4300m, 3-4hrs, all the
way up along yak pasture.
|DAY 08-09 : Trek to Gokyo
at 4900m , 5 hrs.all the the way up.
|DAY 10 : Gokyo-Tangnang alt
4900m, 2-3 hrs.
Early Morniing Climb Gokyo Ri 5320 m,
after lunch two hrs trek to Thangnang
alt 4900m at Cho La Base Camp.
|DAY 11 : Tangnang-Dzongla
alt 4900m, 7 hrs.
We leave about 5 am, it will take to
get pass alt 5320m about drop to D zongla.
Please remember, if you are doing Lodge
trek, accommodation is poor and you
must sleep at Dormitery.
|DAY 12 : Trek to Gorakshep,
|DAY 13 : Gorakshep - Lobuche
alt 4800, it is excursion day.
am climb Kalapattar alt 5545m, view
Everest & return via base camp,
and return down to Lobuche alt 4800m
|DAY 14 : Trek to Chukkung
alt 4700m, 5-6hrs.
You can tell us and decide at Lobuche
to take standard route or to get chukkung
crossing Kongmala Pass alt 5540m, View
from Kongmala Pass is beautiful and
another advantage you gained is acclimatization.
|DAY 15 : Trek to Imjatse Base
Camp alt 4800m O/n Camp.
|DAY 16 : Trek to Pareshaya
Gyab ( Base Camp) alt 5100m.
|DAY 17 : Summit the peak and
return to Chukkung.
My experience, couple of time I climbed
7 years ago, was done successfully most
party also did successfully, since couple
of years its climbing route and route
form is changing of melting glacier,
it has become more difficult and difficult.
Climbing Island peak is like a spending
a night in a small island looking all
round seas. It does not offer sea view
but mountain views It is independent
|DAY 18 : Trek to Tyngboche.
|DAY 19 : Trek to Namche
|DAY 20 : Trek to Lukla
|DAY 21 : Fly to Kathmandu,
transfer Hotel time free
|DAY 22 : City Sight seeing
|DAY 23 : Departure to yours
- Standard Hotel accommodation
on BB Basis,
- Essential permit, fees
and climbing permit,
- Ground & air Transportation
- Sight seeing and Airport
- Camping Equipment: Trekking
tents, Dining tent, Kitchen Tent, Toilet
Tent, Table and chairs, Mattresses during
the trekking & Peak climbing period
- Food: Food for trekking
& Peak climbing (Breakfast, lunch,
- Staff: 1 Base Camp Guide,
1 Cook, 1 Kitchen, 1 climbing guide &
- Personal equipment for
climbing & trekking
- Travel insurance, evacuation
and rescue flight
- Sleeping bag
- Personal nature of expenses
- Tipping (Tips)
- Bar bills & beverage